A little over an hour from the walled city, a single route brings together two faces of Campeche: the state's most celebrated craft and a freshwater haven to cool off in. Becal and the Ich Ha Lol Xaan ecological park combine into a perfect day trip for anyone who wants to go beyond the historic centre without straying too far.
It is the kind of day — culture in the morning, nature in the afternoon — that turns a trip to Campeche into something memorable.
The fine weave of a true jipijapa hat. · Photo: Andrea Castro
Becal: the cradle of the jipi hat
In the municipality of Calkiní, in the north of the state, Becal is synonymous with a single object: the jipijapa hat, the Mexican "Panama." What is extraordinary is how it is made. The artisan families weave underground, in damp caves and cellars dug beneath their houses, because the humidity keeps the jipijapa fibre supple and allows a weave so fine and tight that the best examples can be rolled up without cracking.
On the plaza, monuments to the hat announce the town's pride. Several workshops open their doors: you can watch the whole process, descend into a weaving cave and buy directly from the maker. To understand where this craft sits among the state's traditions, it is worth first reading about the five handcrafts of Campeche.
Ich Ha Lol Xaan: the day's cool reward
Close to Becal, the Ich Ha Lol Xaan ecological park offers the natural counterpoint: freshwater pools, palapas and bathing areas ringed by greenery. After a morning among caves and workshops, it is the ideal place to eat, swim and let the hottest hours pass in the shade.
Ich Ha Lol Xaan, the day's cool reward near Becal.
How to plan the day
It pays to leave the walled city early, give the cool morning to Becal and keep midday for the park. A driver or a rental car handles the route with ease. On the way back, the heritage home awaits for a quiet afternoon. This excursion pairs beautifully with our tailor-made experiences, and to choose dates it helps to know when to visit Campeche.
Make a heritage home your base for exploring Campeche, inside and beyond the walls.
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The plaza and church of Becal, in the Calkiní municipality.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Becal and how do you get there?
Becal belongs to the municipality of Calkiní in northern Campeche, a little over an hour by car from the walled city along the road toward Mérida. It makes a comfortable half-day or full-day trip.
Why is Becal famous?
For its jipijapa hats, the celebrated "Panama" hats, hand-woven inside damp caves and cellars. The humidity keeps the fibre supple and allows an extremely fine weave; the best hats can be rolled up without breaking.
What is the Ich Ha Lol Xaan park?
An ecological park near Becal, with freshwater pools, palapas and bathing areas surrounded by greenery. It is the perfect natural counterpoint after the cultural visit to the hat workshops.
Can you visit the hat workshops?
Yes. Several artisan families open their workshops and show how they descend into the caves to weave. You can see the whole process and buy directly from the maker.
How long does the trip take?
Leaving Campeche early, a morning is enough for Becal and part of the afternoon to cool off at Ich Ha Lol Xaan, returning to the walled city by evening.
